Denali by Rail
Scott McMurren -- Jan. 2005
Alaska Travelgram | zoom@gci.net
There are many well-kept secrets in Alaska. A fair number of potential visitors are not
quite sure if there is electricity... or if locals still live in igloos!
But the word is getting out. Many folks know about the wonderful scenery along Alaska's
"Inside Passage", accessible by cruise ship. And more people are discovering the delicious taste of
Alaska's bountiful seafood. Then there's Mt. McKinley, or "Denali" as locals call it.
Some adventurers come to Alaska to climb the mountain. But most are content to see it from a
distance. At more than 20,000 feet, it is a sight to behold. But here's the insider's tip: take the
train from Anchorage up to Talkeetna or Denali National Park for a great "Denali Experience".
Princess Tours' "Midnight Sun Express" is a full-dome private rail car pulled behind the
Alaska Railroad's daily train between Anchorage and Fairbanks. This is not your normal train ride.
The cars are custom-designed for great views of Denali almost from the minute you pull out from the
station in Anchorage.
The train leaves early, right around 7 a.m. several days a week during the summer. As you enter the train,
everyone grabs a seat upstairs in the viewing area. You will enjoy an informative narration along the
way from your Princess Tours representative. Learn about how President Harding came north from
Washington, D.C. to drive the final stake in the Alaska Railroad's tracks in Nenana. Learn
about the importance of the railroad in Alaska's early development and how today's railroad
is a lifeline for remote settlers along the rails between Anchorage and Fairbanks.
After getting settled, you'll go downstairs for breakfast. The two-story configuration
of the train cars allows for up-high viewing and gourmet dining in each car! Your car attendant
will give you plenty of notice on when to get your camera ready for one of the stunning vistas
along the way, many of which include a shot of Denali.
To see the best of Denali, you have two choices on the train. You can ride the rails to
Talkeetna, then take a Princess motorcoach to the Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge.
This is the closest hotel to the mountain. On a clear day, Denali fills the entire northern
horizon. The view from the sun deck is nothing short of spectacular. Many amateur photographers
keep backing up on the deck and leaning back to try and get the whole mountain in the picture.
Fat chance!
To get up-close to the mountain in Talkeetna, you need to take an air tour. Depending on the
operator, you can choose to fly over the top of the mountain in a pressurized twin-engine craft
or land on a glacier in a ski plane. Both tours are fantastic. Make sure you have plenty of film,
or plenty of room on your camera's memory card.
Another great option when you're in Talkeetna is a jet-boat ride on the Susitna
River with Mahay's Riverboat Service. The "Talkeetna Queen" features three powerful
engines to power up the mighty Susitna River. You may see moose, beaver and eagles along the way.
Stop at an old miner's campground and learn about the history of the area.
You also can continue on the Midnight Sun Express to the park entrance at Denali National
Park. Stay at the Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge and make plans early to take the Tundra
Wildlife Tour deep into the park.
You're more likely to see Denali on the train ride to the park than you will from the park
itself. The big draw at Denali Park is the wildlife as much as the mountain. And you will see
wildlife on the bus tour that goes deep in the park. It's a long ride and it leaves early in the
morning. Be prepared-- and don't miss it! Watch for caribou, bear, wolves and other critters. Of course,
the scenery in the park is incredible and your guide will share stories about the park, its history and
how the park service safeguards the wildlife.
Air tours also are available from the park entrance and it's a great opportunity to see more of one of
America's most popular national parks. Also available at the park are raft rides down the exciting
Nenana River, horseback rides and a visit to Iditarod Champion Jeff King's dog kennel. You'll learn
more about the Iditarod Sled Dog Race and how Jeff's dogs helped him win!
Many visitors opt to continue traveling on the train north to Fairbanks to continue their Alaskan
adventure. One of the highlights north of Denali is the big loop the train takes to climb over the
railroad bridge that spans the Nenana River at the town of Nenana. You'll learn how important the
railroad is to these "railbelt" communities.
Travelers also can choose to travel south from Fairbanks to Denali Park
or Talkeetna, before continuing to Anchorage.
About Scott McMurren
Scott McMurren lives and works in Anchorage, Alaska, with his wife Christy and their two boys, Drew and David.
Traveling around the big state of Alaska is a passion of Scott's: from Ketchikan to Barrow, from Adak to Nome,
from Cold Bay to Wrangell and lots of places in-between.
Scott produces the Alaska Travelgram Newsletter and alaskatravelgram.com website. He also writes
a weekly travel column for a local newspaper, the Anchorage Daily News. It can be viewed online each Sunday,
in the "Life" section: http://www.adn.com
Or, tune in to KFQD each Saturday morning between 9-10am.
It's 750 on the AM dial in Anchorage.
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